Biting the hand that fed us

This tank not only supplied water to the residents of  Bangalore but it was also the place where large crowds gathered in the evenings, spending time eating roasted nuts, munching tidbits and sitting on the steps, watching the steam locomotives huff and puff their way to and from the City Railway Station.

The water body was perhaps one of the most recognised landmarks of Bangalore in the 19^th century and everyone who came to Bangalore by train saw the clear water and admired its beauty. Among the admirers of this tank were India’s first Prime Minister and statesman, Jawaharlal Nehru.

Nehru loved the way a passenger would be greetd woth the clear waters of the tan once he stepped out of the station. The wonderful sight of the vast water body charmed millions of people whpo carried back tales of the city of lakes back home.

The tank was surrounded by small and petty shops cart sellers and even houses. There were also several boarding houses for the poor and needy which gave shelter to the homeless. Several men of repute, including Swamy Vivekananda, sat near the tank.

Of course, Nehru and his daughter Indira Gandhi visited Bangalore several times and during one of their visits they found that the tank had dried up and given way to a vast ground where people gathered in large numbers. Nehru too along with other Congress giants and Mahatma Gandhi addressed huge gatherings on the dry tank bed. People then called it Gandhi Sagara.

Both Nehru and little Indira, as he called her, stayed during one of their visits at the house of a Congress leader in Cottonpet. The Congress in the State grew so attched to the ground that they wrote to the Mysore Government seeking a lease on it. The Wodeyars, who were chary of  antagonising the British or encouding the freedom movement in their Kingdom, demurred and so the tank bed remained for several more years before it completely lost out to growing urbanisation.

The tank, after the fall of Tipu Sultan, was the lifeline of the Bangalore Pettah area and it was also the boundary between the Cantonment (Civil and Military Station) and the Pettah area. Just across the tank was the Resident’s House and a little down was the Cantonment Railway Station.

All roads of the Pettah, including the now disused and broken down fort of City Market, radiated towards the lake. The many pettahs founded by Kemp Gowda-Chickpet, Balepet, Narasinghpet, Taramandalpet, Cottonpet and surrounding areas prospered and became a business and trading hub.

The tank too along with other water bodies provided clear ad pristine water to the people of Hale Bangalore or Pettah. Though historians ascribe the construction of this tank to Kempe Gowda sometime in 1537,  this water body finds mention in a Hoysala inscription of 1247 where it is called the Dodda Kere of Vengaluru.

It was this Dodda Kere or big tank that Kempe Gowda repaired, renovated and enlarged when he founded the City of Bangalore. He named the water body as Dharmambudhi Tank. Why it was so named is still a mystery.

There was another tank near the railway station and this was named as Jakkarayanakere. Today, the Platform road is the only reminder of the once vast lake. To the othet side of the railways station was the lake near Binny Mills.

Coming back to the the Dharmambudhi tank, this was one of the series of tanks and lakes developed by Kempe Gowda for providing water to the city he founded. The tank extended upto the Subedar Chatram Road where the Annamma temple today stands. The tank also irrigated the paddy fields and flower gardens of Tulasi Thotha and surrounding areas.

Water channels from the Dharmambudhi tank were constructed along the streets of the Pettah and water was let into these channels. Residents of the Pettah gathered water from these channels at various points called Karanjis or square depressions cut of stone.

The Dharmambudhi Tank and other water bodies like Sampangiramnagar provided employment to a new class of people called water carriers. Thes water carriers ferried water from the tanks to their custmers in skin bags slun across poles placed on their shoulders. The affluent class employed such water carriers on a regular basis.

The waters of the Dharmambudhi tank extended upto the steps of the Anjeneya Temple near Majestic. The temple authorities conducted theepotsava every year and it drew arge crowds. The many uses of the tank led people to name it as Jeeva kere.  

When famine ravaged Mysore State, including Bangalore in 1877, the Government ordered desilting work of the Dharmambudhi tank and repaired its supply channels to provide employment to the impoverished people. The desilting was a success and it led to increased supply of drinking water to the pete or Pettah.

The then Municipality decided to deveop the grounds adjacent to the lake and called it Chicklalbagh. The foundation for the park was laid in the same year and it was completed in 1878. The Mysore Government then decided to organize Nadaswaram recital every Sunday evening between 6 p.m., and 8 p.m., at the park.

With more and more people gathering in and around the tank, debris, filth and sewage began to build up and the tank slowly began shrinking both in extent and in quantity.

During summer, the tank water dried up and people defecated on the tank bed and in the water channels. They also dumped garbage and filth. When the rains came. The filth was pushed into the tank and soon it began to emit a foul smell.

In 1892-93, the monsoons failed Bangalore along with other parts of the Mysore Kingdom witnessed severe water shortage. The Dharmambudhi tank too dried up and the Government decided to fill up the tank with water from Hebbal tank and Jakkarayana tank. No less than 23,20,000 gallons of water was flushed into the Dharmambudhi tank from the Hebbal tank.

In 1889, when Prince Albert Victor, son of Queen of British India, Victoria, alighted at the Bangalore railway station, he was welcomed by dancers who performed on a float placed in the centre of the Dharmambudhi tank.

The famous Purnaiah Chatra and several other mathas were located on the south-eastern side of the tank. The Poornaiah choultry is a school now. Besides, there were three free boarding houses or chatras adjacent to the tank.
The Government, by then, realised that the tanks and lakes would not suffice to fulfill the growing needs of Bangalore. The Government took up construction of the Hesarghatta Reservior and committed itself to providing piped water supply to residents of Bangalore. The first piped water flowed into Bangalore in 1896 and all the water tanks and lakes, including Dharmambudhi, came to be neglected.    

The Municipality allowed the tank to become dry and by the turn of the 20^th century, it had almost disappeared but for a small patch of water. In 1905,  the Mysore Government suggested to the Bangalore Municipality to convert the Dharmambudhi tank into a children’s park. However, the municipality felt that the tank could be maintained as a water body. It replied that when it had sufficient funds, it would divert water from Sankey lake into Dharmambudhi. This promises remained only on paper and it soon came to be forgotten.

Exactly two decades later, in 1925, the Municipality dug a well on the now dry bed of Dharmambudhi tank. This was to pump water immediately to the water starved areas of  Balepet and Manavarthpet. The municipality then hired the Dharmambudhi tank bed for holding public meetings, exhibitions and events and only a little shallow water near the Chiklalbagh side reminded people of the lake.

In 1931, Jawaharlal Nehru addressed a public meeting here and hoisted the tricolour as part of the Freedom Movement. In July 1931, the Bangalore City Congress Committee requested the municipality to lease the north western corner of  the tank bed for five years at an annual rent of Rs 6. The Municipality forwarded the request to the Government, which turned down the request.

The decades after Independence saw rapid urbanization of Bangalore and the Dharmambudhi tank slowly began dying. By 1957, the water had completely dried and from the 1960s, it was only a playground where Congress exhibitions were held.  

Soon after Independence, the dry tank was named Subashnagar in honor of Subash Chandra Bose. The tank bed became a popular venue for public meetings, exhibitions and other events. In 1963,  the land was handed over to the KSRTC and several years later, the Chief Minister, R Gundu Rao, asked the KSRTC to construct a mofussil and city bus stand.

Today, the only remnant of the lake is the name of Dharmambudhi Tank Bund Road. The Tulasi Thotha and Chick Lalbagh exist as also the Railway Station. Sadly, the waters of the tank are now only a memory and only a handful of the millions who pass by daily remember it.

There is no use blaming the Government alone for the death of the lake. All of us are equally responsible for biting the hand that fed us.   

A repository of History

What Malleswaram is to north Bangalore, this locality is to south Bangalore. Both these localities were conceived and even formed simultaneously. They came up as a result of the great plague epidemic of 1898 that ravaged Bangalore.

Both Malleswaram and this locality is named after the most prominent temples in their respective localities. Sine their inception, both these localities have continued to be bastions of  local culture, Kannada language, literature, art and music. 

If it was the great plague that led to the formation of both Malleswaram and this locality, today it is the intellectual consciousness and remarkable adherence to tradition and culture of yore of the people of these two localities that distinguish then from the rest of Namma Bangalore.

Both these localities were well-laid our at the foothills of elevated hillocks. If Malleswaram was at the foothills of the Kempe Gowda tower and the small hillock of Palace Guttahalli, this locality was  at the foothills of Bugle rock and Lalbagh.

Talk about Bangalore and one is sure to mention Malleswaram in as much the same breath as Basavanagudi. Yes, this post is about Basavanagudi, one of the few localities in Bangalore that is named after a local temple or deity.

Each street and each institution in Basavanagudi has its own tale to narrate. The Bugle rock is not only historically important but it is also a geological wonder. The park nearby is host to fruit bats. There are scores of temples but Basavanagudi gets its name from the temple of Basava or Nandi on Bull Temple road.    

The village of Basavanapura that once was situated adjacent to the Karanji Anjeneya Temple just off Gandhi Bazar too lent its name to the new locality. .

There was another village nearby and this was called Sunkenahalli. Both Basavanapura and Sunkenahalli gave way to Basavanagudi and today both the villages along with Kanakanapalya, which was at the edge of the Basavanagudi locality (now RV Teacher College and surrounding areas) are history.

The only remnant of the villages are the Kadalakai Parashe that is held every year on Bull Temple Road. Even today, groundnut growers come in hundreds to sell their wares during the fair.

By the way, both Malleswaram and Basavanagudi had their own sources of water. The Kadu Malleswara temple in Malleswaram and the Bull temple were the places where the rivers originated.  

Interestingly both the localities were planned near the watch towers of Kempe Gowda. The locality of Malleswaram skirted around the Kempe Gowda tower near Mekhri Circle, while Basavanagudi extended to the entrance of Lalbagh which housed another of the towers and the Kempambudhi lake where the third tower was located.

Kempegowda-I (1513-1569) planned the southern boundary of Bangalore to include the Karanji lake and this was set aesthetically among the rocks. Kempe Gowda called this Karenji.

Kempe Gowda is also credited with having built the garbagudi of the Karenji Anjeneya Temple. He also arranged for the  Pranaprathista of the deity and ensured daily pujas were conducted.

Locals believe that Janamejaya, the grandson of Abimanyu, had performed penance at the hillock on which Anjaneya idol is located.

The Basava temple and several other temples were adjacent to the calm and peaceful Karanji lake. The water body covered parts of Basavanagudi, Chamrajapet and Gandhi Bazar. The tank dried up soon after the Dharmambudhi and Siddikatte tanks dried up. The National High School today stands on the bed of the once beautiful tank.

Just across the tank and where Ramakrishna Ashrama stands and the localities of Hanumanthanagar and Srinagar were the groundnut fields. The fields soon gave way once the Karanji tank ran dry. Only the Bugle rock remained.

During the third Mysore War which commenced in 1791, a contingent from the Mysore army under the leadership of Mir Quamar-ud-din launched a rocket attack on the British forces from Bugle rock. The small contingent was overcome and the British marched towards the fort (now at City Market) and subsequently conquered it.

Once Tipu was finally defeated, Basavanapura and Sunkadakatte continue to remain small villages on the periphery of  the Petah town and they supplied fruits, vegetables and ground nuts to the people.

However, things changed when the Mysore Government planned new extensions in the aftermath of the plague. This is how both Basavanagudi and Malleswaram came up and both swallowed the villages on which they were planned. 

Soon, both Basavanagudi and Malleswaram became the centre of Kannada and along with Chamarajpet led to the renaissance of Kannada language and culture.

Luminaries like Prof Bellave Venkatanaranappa were the earlier settlers of Basavanagudi. Prof. Bellave was an institution by himself and a founder member of several organizations such as the Kannada Sahitya Parishad and Basvanagudi Union and Service. He also renovated the Mallikarjuna templeand edited Vignana Kannada, a journal in Kannada on science.

He had a battery of disciples and each one made a name for himself and they included the redoubtable D.V.G, Masti Venkatesh Iyengar, V.C, BMSri, M.V.Setharamaiah and others.

Even today, Basavanagudi retains its old world charm. It is one of the few localities in Bangalore that have managed to integrate harmoniously the old with the new. Of course, the rush of urbanization and modernism continues but the people seem more aware of their rich culture and heritage. No wonder, it is a repository of history and culture.     

When Bangalore was known as Kalyani Nagara

Several centuries ago, a fairly vast body of water in present day Majestic area of Bangalore was part of the forests and it was called Doddakere or the Big Lake.

The lake and the forests around Majestic and present day Bangalore formed part of the Hoysala Empire. The Hoysalas had managed to wrestle control of Bangalore from the Cholas who in turn had taken it from the Gangas of Talakad.

The Gangas had considered Bangalore province to be important when they had their earlier capital at Kolar. They in turn had vanquished the Nolambas to win Kolar and Bangalore. Some of the temples constructed by the Nolambas still exists in Kolar and other places in south India. (Some of the Nolamba temples are Kalleshwara Temple at Aralaguppe in Tiptur taluk of Tumkur district, Narayaneshwara temple and Shankara Matha in Avani of Kolar district, Bhoga Nandishwara in Nandi Hills, Yoga Narasimha of Tondanur in Mandya district, Siddeswara (Henjerappa) and Doddeswara Temples in Hemavati, Anantapur district and Veeranjaneya Swamy Temple in  Aragonda, Chittoor district of Andhra Pradesh).  

The forests of Bangalore did not last long. By the turn of the 14th century and early 15th century, the forests came to be cleared and a few small hamlets and villages sprang up. By then, Yelahanka was fairly a big settlement as was Domlur and Magadi. Of Bangalore, there is not much information but suffice it to say it was not a very important city.

However, things changed when the Vijayanagar Empire took form roots in south Karnataka. The local rulers or Nada Prabhus of Yelahanka also claimed Bangalore as their own and soon one of their earliest rulers, Kempe Gowda (1513-1569), managed to get Bangalore and several other villages as a gift from Achuta Deva Raya (1529-1542), the Vijayanagar Emperor.

Kempe Gowda then set about building and fortifying Bangalore. A far sighted man, he let the lakes and water bodies be and renovated and repaired them. He also built several lakes and Dharmambudi lake is assigned to him though there is evidence to suggest that this is the Dodda Kere that Hoysala inscriptions mention.

Kempe Gowda so planned the Dharmambudi lake that it supplied water to one end of the Bangalore fort. Another lake, Karanji in present day Gandhi Bazar, too supplied water to the moat. Kempe Gowda built several other lakes and all of them were interconnected with each other.

The lakes and the Kalyanis gave Bangalore its reputation as city of lakes and Kalyanis. The city soon came to be known as Kalyani pura or Kalyani nagara.

Kempe Gowda built several temples, including the Someshwara temple in Alasooru or Halasooru, now Ulsoor. The Kalyani of Someshwara Temple was discovered beneath a huge mound of debris and illegal constructions two years ago. Similarly, Kempe Gowda built the Gavi Gangadheswara Temple which had a Kalyani as did the Anjenaya temple near Bugle rock in Basavanagudi.

The 110-year-old Sampangiramnagar kalyani in the heart of the city, which was excavated and revived a few years ago, was nothing but an unused pit with overgrown weeds. And though it has no water, the kalyani makes for a beautiful lighting spot during Diwali and Dussera. Ancient carvings on its three sides add to the charm.

There is also a Kalyani near Urvashi cinema on Lalbagh road. Sadly, the history of Kalyanis and their numbers have not been documented. However, the names of Kalyana nagara or Kalyani pura disappeared as soon as the name of Bangalore became popular.

The lakes too died after piped water came to Bangalore and the utility of water bodies gradually lessened.

Thus, Bangalore not only lost its kalyanis but also water bodies. Today, there are massive efforts to revive both but at what cost.