The twin peaks of Chikaballapur

Trekking and Weekend Getaways

If there is one hill or rather twin hills that is so near Bangalore and yet so virgin and so isolated this has to be it. It is just 75 kilometres away from Bangalore and yet it has largely remained away from public eye.

The name of the two hills too are rather unusual. There is not much wildlife here but there are plenty of birds to be seen. The climb to the hills too is rather not that steep and the trek up to the top can be a pleasant experience.

However, once you reach the top, you will be buffeted by strong winds and when you look around, you see the outlines of several other hills.

The hills are named after the Pandavas and the Kauravas and they are near Chikaballpur in Chikaballapur district. Both the hills are easily approachable from a village called Hariharapura (There is another Hariharapura near Sringeri which is a pilgrim centre on the banks of Tungabhadra ).

Hariharapura is a small hamlet in Chikaballapur village and it is known for these two twin peaks. The peaks are about 75 kms from Bangalore and about four kms from Chikaballapur.

The grassy hilltop of Kaurava Hill or Kaurava Kunda rises to nearly 250 meters and a flight of steps lead to the top. There is a Shiva temple here.

Nearby the hills are the Jarmagadu water falls. There is no water here during summer but you can have a good time exploring the rocks.

The hills are a little more than two hours drive by road from Bangalore. Kaurava Kunda is well-known for night trekking. Since the trek is moderately difficult, many people, including amateur trekkers, prefer this peak.

If you are lucky, you can make out several species of birds and butterflies. During monsoon, the trek can get tricky as the boulders become slippery and the trail soggy.       
Chikabalapur is 56 km north of  Bangalore and it is located in the center of the Nandi Hills region. It is often called Panchagiri as the town is surrounded by five picturesque hills, including Nandi.

The other hills are  Chandra Giri, Skandagiri, Brahma Giri, and Hema Giri. Chikabalapur is well-connected by road.

The hill with three shrines

Trekking and Weekend Getaways

This is one of the few hills that is as isolated as they come. Though it is near Bangalore it is deserted most of the times. This is good place for trekking and spending a quite weekend with family and friends.

Since it is near another hill which is more famous, trekkers and visitors give this hill a go by. This is the hill of Hemagiri near Huliyurdurga in Kunigal taluk of Tumkur district.

The Hemagiri hill comes after Huliyurdurga and it is one the  Kunigal- Kollegal- Maddur road. This perhaps is the only hill which has three important shrines.   

This hill, which rises to a height of more than 2000 feet, is much less known that Huliyurdurga but it is perhaps more isolated and sparsely populated. The climb too is equally steep.

This towering hill can easily be accessed from the north-west through a stone arch, beyond a stretch of cultivated land. Visitors can ascend the hill easily as the paths are marked by electric poles. There are numerous water bodies along the hill top.

This is the Hemagiri betta or hill and it is a place of pilgrimage for locals. It has temples of Mallikarjuna and Varadaraja Swamy. If you are lucky, you can see  bears near the Bhairava Cave temple.

The hill is 3800 feet in height and is one of the many hills dotting Kunigal taluk.

The Varadaraja temple is very famous and it attracts a large number of people from nearby villages and Kunigal and Tumkur. It is popularly called Hemagiri Varadarajaswamy Temple. The idol of Varadarajaswamy is worshiped in the form of a Saligrama.

Varadaraja Swamy is also called Hemagiriappa. The idol is a round stone on the floor, signifying its origin as an Udbhava murti. A large footprint of the deity is seen outside the temple. A wooden chariot is another unique feature of the temple.

A grand fair is held during Shankranti, which attracts a large number of devotees.

The climb from the Varadaraja Swamy temple to the top is not all that steep. When you reach the top, you will find two mantapas and a small pool with clean water. The temple at the top is dedicated to  Mallikarjuna. There is a small Nandi and pond in the front. Pooje is done only on Mondays and on Shivaratri in February. The temple generally remains closed on other days.

The view from the top of Hemagiri hill is enchanting and you can make out Huliyurdurga in the distance.

The best route from Bangalore is to go upto Nelamangala and head towards Kunigal. When you reach Kunigal, look out for the road pointing to Huliyurdurga and take the road. The moment you reach Huliyurdurga, you can spot the Hemagiri Betta which looks bigger  and taller than Huliyurdurga.

The Hemagiri Betta is 2 kms from Huliyurdurga. It can be accessed from Bangalore through Magadi (50 km) and Huliyurdurga (30 km).

When you approach this hill from Huliyurdurga side, you come across a temple dedicated to Baireshwara. The idol here is in a cave and it is believed to be a Udhbava murti. Look out for bears here.

The pooje for the deity is performed only on Sundays.

Near Hemagiri is another hill called Kumbhi. This has the ruins of a fort built by Kempe Gowda. This hill too is a good place to spend your weekend.  Hemagiri is about 80 kms from Bangalore.  

Six kilometres from Hemagiri is the village Ujjini which is well-known for the temple of Chowdeshwari.

The temple jatra, held after Ugadi, is famous and it goes on for five days. The jatra includes the ritual of walking on fire (agnikonda) with the utsava murti of Nidsale Chowdeshwari and Ujjini Chowdeshwari and the karga. This ritual is a sight to see and is once in an year ritual. Chennapatna is 21 kms from here.

An umbrella carved from a single stone

Trekking and weekend Getaways

Would you like to view the entire hill ranges of Kolar at one go. Mind you there are several hills in and around Kolar and they number hundreds.

It might take you a lot of tears and several months to climb or even see all of them. Though they are all closeted nearby, they are all rock hewn with some of them having steep slopes and steeper access points.

The best way to take in the entire rock ranges of Kolar would to head to Paparajanahati village which is near Antargange in Kolar. The village is just two kilometers towards West from Antargange.

There are two things that you can do at the village here. The first is to gaze in awe and wonder at the stone umbrella that has been carved out of a single stone in front of the Shiva temple. The village is also equally known for the dargah of  Baba Hazrat Khaja Usman Shawali.

Both the temple and the Dargah are visited by people of all the communities. You can reach this temple either on foot from Antargange or by a vehicle.

You can have a glimpse of the entire Kolar ranges which is also called as Shathashringa Parvatha from here. The peak rises to a height of 4026 feet and gives you an amazing view of the surroundings. If you can, start counting the number of hills you can see.

If you have not visited Antargange, do so. There are temples here and the climb to the peak is worth the effort. 

Kolar is just 65 kms from Bangalore. The hills are just four kms from Kolar. The city of Kolar is accessible by both rail and road.

Walking with the elephants

Trekking and Weekend Getaways

How about trekking with the elephants or more often than not follow in their path. Or how about listening to the roar of wild animals. No, I am not talking about any zoological gardens or a national park. I am talking about the forests of Bannerghatta.

By the way, this is not the Bannerghatta Zoo or the famous safari. This forest I am taking about is located right in and around the twin peaks of  Doddaragihalli Betta and  Chickkaragihalli Betta.

These two peaks are in the vicinity of Bannerghatta but they are not as well-known as  Bannerghatta. They are more known to trekkers and wildlife enthusiasts than visitors and even residents of Bangalore.

The Forest Department has two years ago thrown open the forests around Chickkaragihalli and Doddaragihalli for the public. These forests are home to a variety of animals, including elephants, and they are the perfect spot for nature lovers and trekkers.

What makes these twin peaks more alluring is that they are just 30 kilometres from Bangalore. I wonder in which City in India, apart for from the Borivile national park in Mumbai, you get wildlife and trekking trails so close to an urban conglomerate.

However, you have to obtain permission from the Forest department to enter these forests. You have to contact the office of National Park at Kalkere Koli (poultry) Farm. Once you take permission, you will be accompanied on your trail with trained staff from the Forest Department.

You can straightaway head to the Doddaragihalli Betta and  Chickkaragihalli Betta. You can get to hear animals roaring en route to the peak. There are two watch towers on the way which afford a spectacular and panoramic view of the forests and the surroundings.

Check out the bear caves along the path to the peak. However, if you are new to trekking, it may not be so easy as the path is full of thorns and also vegetation. If summers are not, the rainy season can put you off. The best time would be from October till March. After March, the summer begins to set in and climbing in the mornings becomes tiresome.

All along the way to the peaks, look up the many stone burial sites which belong to the Megalithic Age. 

These age old burial spots are called sarcophaguses by archaeologists and some of them are more than 3,000 years old. The local Irula tribes buried their dead in such a manner. They left their dead beneath these stones and covered them up with several other stones. You can still see remains of  human beings and pieces of clothes from beneath such rock shelters. These burial sites were piled up with small rocks stones and boulders to prevent animals from getting at the bodies.  

The Irulas discontinued this practice only eight years ago after the Government allotted a separate burial ground for them at the foothills of the hills. Treasure hunters have frequently disturbed such burial places.

Unfortunately even the Forest Department itself has demolished several such structures to build rubble walls to deter elephants from coming down the hills.   

The local Irula tribals used to leave their dead beneath these stone structures till as recently as seven years ago when they were given a new burial ground. Human remains and shreds of clothes can still be seen beneath some of these ceremonial structures.

Treasure hunters and tribals are not the only ones threatening these archaeological treasures. Several such burial spots have been demolished by the forest department which has used the rubble to build walls to block elephants.

You can easily make out these structures. They look like huge benches with a large flat tone supported on boulders placed

haphazardly. These slabs, some with a diameter of over 10 feet and as thick as two feet, are elevated three feet from the ground. They are locally called as Pandavara Gavi as another class of tribals called Pandavas too buried their dead in such a manner .

Apart from these two hills, such burial places can be seen across  Mettabande and Mirza Hills.

Coming back to these hills, there are many elephants and villagers of Ragihalli report seeing them frequently. Take acre not to get too close and please remember that a software engineer, Satwick, died when he was trampled by elephants near Ragihalli village. Anyway, hire a guide and take permission of the Forest Department before venturing into the reserve forests.   

If you are traveling by bus from City Market, take routes numbers  370/370A/370B. If you are in your own vehicle, drive down to Bannerghatta road. When you reach Bannerghatta Circle, traval a little further down here you are welcomed by a board or rather signpost saying way to Ragihalli.

Trekking to Antaragange

The Ganga

river is one of the most holy rivers in the world. It is more than 1,500 kilometres from Bangalore. Of course, you have flights and trains to Varanasi or Kashi and Allahabad where the Ganga flows, but it does not lessen the distance. But did you know that there is a hill near Bangalore
which is believed to have a stream of Ganga water pouring down. If Kashi has a Vishwanatha temple, this hill too has a similar temple. The difference is that while the Vishwanatha temple is located on the banks of the Ganga
, the holy river flows as a small stream from the mouth of a Bull or Nandi. This is Antargange, a small hill in Kolar district of Karnataka. The Antargange Hills are just 70 kilometres from Bangalore
and a  mere four kms from the bus stand in Kolar.Antargange is a paradise for a nature lover and also a pilgrim. It is also a trekker’s paradise, what with the rocky hill which makes climbing an adventure. It consists of granites, peninsular gneiss, basic dykes and laterites and rises to 1235 feet.
The first thing that greets you when you near the Antargange Hill is the numerous monkeys. These monkeys forage for food in the hills and when they see tourists with bags and food packets, they turn aggressive.
Some of the monkeys come near you and try to snatch the food packets and eatables from your hand. So beware of them and keep a stick handy to scare them away. However, take care not to hurt them. The best thing is to keep a safe distance from them.
The climb to the top of the hill is by a flight of steps. The hill top not only gives you an excellent view of the surroundings but also has a small village called Therahalli. There is a Shiva temple here. It is better known as temple
of Kashi Vishwantha.This is also called the temple of rocks. Apart from the Vishwanatha, there are several smaller lingas around the temple.
The Nandi or Bull standing just outside the temple is a beautiful sight. Water comes out of its mouth continuously and this is believed to be the holy Ganga
. The priest will tell you that the holy Ganga is the source of  the stream. There is also a small Kalyani nearby.Antara in Kannada means deep and the word Antargange means Ganga
from the deep. This place is also known as Dakshina Kashi. The hills are a nature lover’s delight. There are several natural caves which are worth exploring. Several clubs and Non-government organisations (NGOs) offer caving and trekking packages to Antargange from Bangalore
and even Kolar.  Getting to Antargange from Bangalore
is not a problem at all. Kolar is well-connected by road and rail network. It is just two hours drive from Bangalore. From Kolar to Antargange, you can take a private bus or even hire an autorickshaw. If you like walking, do so. If you have time, check out Kotilingeshwara which is nearby. It has several lakh lingas with one huge Linga.
Kotilingeshwara is the presiding deity of the temple by the same name. It is in Kammasandra village. It is about five kilometers from KGF and six kms from  Alada Mara (Bharat Nagar) bus stop.
The huge Linga measures 108 ft (33 metres) in height and in front of it is  a 35 ft (11 metres) tall Basava. They are surrounded by lakhs of small shivalingas spread over 15 acres. So far, 90 lakh lingas have been installed.
There are eleven smaller temples within the Kotilingeshwara
Temple.The best time to leave Bangalore
is early morning so that you can leave the maddening traffic behind. Moreover, an early trek is always a refreshing experience. The rocks of  Kolar can get pretty hot when the sun comes out.    

Trekking-The twin hills of Ramanagar

There are several caves in this hill or rather twin hills. The local palegars or chieftains used these caves to shelter themselves from their enemies.

During wars and skirmishes, the palegers used these hills to their advantage. They not only hid in these caves but also used them to store arms and ammunition. Some f the caves are so high up on the rocks that you need a ladder to climb into them.

This is the Thenginkal Betta in Ramanagar or Ramanagaram district. The Betta, or rrther two hills, is just off the Bangalore-Mysore highway and is a little more than an hour’s drive from Bangalore.

The hill is a trekker’s delight. It is also a rock climber’s paradise. Infact, there are more than a dozen hills in and around Ramanagar which are on a trekker or climber’s map. Many of these hills remain relatively unexplored and they offer a good opportunity for a quiet retreat.

Thenginkal Beetta remain once such hill. It has two peaks-a small ne and a much larger peak. Both of them together are called Thenginkal betta. Thengu in Kannada means coconut and Kal means rock or boulder. Betta is hill. So it roughly translates as coconut rock hill.

Well, climbing up is an adventure in itself. During the monsoon, the oaths become slippery and the many crevices and depressions on the hill fill up with water. The hill comes alive with greenery.

Interestingly, the lower half of the hill is full of greenery. As you begin to climb, you have to pass over small shrubs, thorns and boulders.

Be careful of thorny bushes. They are likely to “catch” your clothes and if you pull, you are likely to not only hurt yourself but also tear your clothes. The best way to climb the hill would be use trekking shoes and thick pants, preferably jeans as they can afford a lot of protection.        

One of the caves high up the hill is pretty big and it can easily accommodate more than 50 people. Some caves have carvings and they were used to store ammunition.

As you climb, the vegetation thins down and you come across hard rocks with natural archs, crevices, water ponds and rocks piled one upon another.

When you reach the peak of the smaller hill, you can see a man made pond.

The best time to trek is early morning. Carry water and some light snacks. The nearest eatery is in Ramanagar. The SRS Betta is nearby. In fact, you have to pass the SRS Betta to reach this twin hills.

Thenginkal Betta cane be reached from Ramanagaram. From Ramanagaram travel on the road towards Kanakapura. You have to cross the Bangalore-Mysore railway line and continue on the road. Travel 12 kms and on the right side of the road you will come across the SRS Betta. Take this road and when you travel a little further, you can see Thenginkal betta.

The best time to visit is between September and February when the it is not very hot. There is small village at the base of the  twin hills.

The Ranganathas around Bangalore

Two Fridays ago, one of my acquaintances dropped into our house in Jayanagar. They had come from Yelahanka and they were planning a visit to the Ranganantha Temple at Magadi.

While we were discussing the best route to Magadi and what to take for the trip, a common friend of ours from Chennai, who had come by, sought to know whether there were any other Ranganatha temples.

He said he had seen the Ranganatha Temple in Magadi just two days ago and he was unwilling to make a trip again. Let me know if there is another Ranganatha Temple, he said.

He also wanted me to guide him to place where he could also trek, enjoy nature’s beauty and to spend some time without the maddening crowd.  

I suggested the Ranganantha Temple at Kalkunte which is 35 kilometres from Bangalore. When he sounded interested in knowing more, I promised him to email details about the place and the temple. He also wanted  me to email details of  other Ranganatha temples near Bangalore so that he could pick and choose.

I emailed the details and modified them for the post here. Here are the details.

The Ranganatha Swamy temple of Kalkunte is 35 kms from Bangalore, It is located between Kolar and Bangalore and it is in Kolar district.

There is an interesting legend behind the consecration of the idol. More than 300 years ago, some villagers here had a dream in which they were asked to proceed to Vakalekere lake in Kolar and bring back an idol which was buried in earth.

The villagers went there and to their surprise found the idol which they brought back to Kalkunte and consecrated.

The Ranganatha here is in Ananthasayana pose. He is with his consorts Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi.  On the right is a sannidhi of Ranganayaki and to the left is an idol of Andal.

Take the Old Airport Road and proceed towards Marathahalli. Cross the Hope Farm in Whitefield and take a right at Channasandra and go towards Saniatamallasandra.

When you reach Ettukodi village, ask for Kalkunte Agrahara.

Rangastala

Another  Ranganatha temple is in Rangastahla in Chikkabakllapur district. It is 57 kms from Bangalore. This is one of the oldest temples in the area.

From Bangalore travel to Gauribidanur and ask for directions there. Rangasthala is five kms from Gauribidanur.

The temple was constructed by Vijayanagar kings. Here Ranganatha appears as if he is in a bamboo basket. There is a legend connecting Vibheshana, the brother of Ravana,  to the deity here.

Magadi

The Ranganatha temple of Magadi is perhaps the most famous of all Ranganatha shrines in and around Bangalore.

It is also called Beleyo Ranga as the idol here keeps growing. It was built by the Cholas in the 12th century when it was known as Lakshmi Ranganatha. The gopuras were built by the Vijayanagar Emperor  Krishnadeva Raya. They were later renovated by the Maharaja Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar of Mysore.

Magadi is 50 kms from Bangalore and it is well connected by road. It was once the capital of Kempe Gowda.

TG Halli, Savandurga and several other areas are very near Magadi. 

Bethamangala

According to a legend, sages Mandavya and Vasistha installed the idol of Vishnu or Ranganatha here.

The beautiful statue of Ranganantha is flanked by Sri Devi and Bhoo Devi. On the right side of the temple hall,  is a reclining statue of Ranganatha.

Rangaswamy Gudda

The Rangaswamy Gudda is 80 kms from Bangalore and it is on the outskirts of Kunigal in Tumkur district. The Ranganathaswamy Temple is atop a hill called Rangaswamy Gudda.

A flight of 400 steps lead to the temple. Drive from Kunigal on national highway no 48 towards Bilidevalaya village. Continue on the same road for three kms after which you will see a huge entrance arch. Follow it and after two more arches you will reach the hill.

The idol is better known as Bettada Ranganatha Swamy. He is seen leaning on his left hand. Lord Ranganatha is represented by a solid stone pillar in the sanctum sanctorum with his figure  reclining at the base.

According to a popular legend, the pillar was discovered more than 300 years ago in a field. The villagers wanted to place it on the top of the hill, but could not lift it due to its heavy weight. A few days later the villagers found that he pillar had been moved to the top of the hill. They found two lizards near the pillar and attributed the transport of the pillar to the lizards. From that day, the deity also came to be known as Uda Moodida Ranga.

Hikkallappana Betta

This is one of the lesser known hills in Tumkur district. It is just 66 kms from Bangalore,    

It is also known as Kurmagiri Kshetra as the main idol in the temple is in the form of a tortoise or Kurma avatar  of Vishnu. The deity here is of Venkataramana but he is popularly called Hikkallappa here.

The original black granite idol is made of Saligrama stone. This idol is consecrated at a level lower than ground level and hence you have to bend if you want to see it.  

There is another idol of  Balaji, which was installed in 1999. It was presented by the Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanam (TTD)  of Andhra Pradesh which has recognised this temple as one of the 108 sub-shrines of the original deity at Tirumala.

Both Hikkalappana Betta an Bettada Rangaswamy are a trekker’s delight. The hill here is 1650 feet in height.

Mahimapura

Another famous shrine of Ranganatha is in Mahimapura near Nelamangala in Bangalore district. This probably is the only temple where Garuda is the main deity in addition to Ranganatha. This is the only place in India where Garuda is worshipped in the form of an idol.

Hence this temple is better known as Garuda Ranganathaswamy temple. The temple is modeled on Chola lines and the temple is situated atop a small hillock. The steps are steep and there are 300 of them.

You can see the beautiful Shivaganga hill almost exactly behind this hillock. There is a Hanuman temple at the foot of the. The idol is twelve feet in height and it is made of a single rock.

The pooja to the Ranganathan is performed only in the mornings. There is no pooja during the night as legends have it that several sages come here in the night and perform pooja.

The idol of Ranganatha is on a naturally formed jaggery shaped rock. This is just 45 kms from Bangalore. Take the Bangalore-Tumkur road till you reach a signboard saying Mahimapura.

Another little known Ranganatha temple is in Tavarkere in Tumkur. The idol here was growing and the local people placed a small boulder or Bandi to stop Ranganatha from growing further. Since then, it is known as Bandi Ranganathaswamy. This is 122 kms away from Bangalore and the journey by road takes more than two hours.   

There are several other Ranganatha temples in and around Bangalore. The most famous, of course, are the Ranganatha Temple in Srirangapatna and at Shivanasamudra.

(The Ranganatha temple of Thattekere and at Kanakapura is covered separately).  

The Ranganatha on a hill

There are plenty of temples dedicate to Ranganatha in and around Bangalore. The two most well-known Ranganatha shrines are in Srirangapatna and Shivanasamudra.

However, both Srirangapatna and Shivanasamudra are far away from Bangalore. While Srirangapatna is almost 120 kms away, Shivanasamudra is slightly more distant. It is 140 kms from Bangalore.

Magadi has a beautiful Ranganatha Temple which is worth a visit. However, if you want to combine a trek among the rocks and a climb to a hill, then the Gavi Rangaswamy betta near Channapatna-Ramanagar is the place.

The Ranganatha shrine here is located atop the Gavi Ranngaswamy betta, which is 6o kms away from Bangalore. It is also known as Bilekal Ranngaswamy Temple and it is in Kanakapura taluk.

The hill is about 3,000 foot above sea level and it is a breathtaking climb to the top. It is a good spot for trekkers and a weekend getaway. The rocks ate the summit are white in colour and, hence, the name Bilekal (white stone).

Called Srirangarajapura, his small village at the foothills was so named after a local Palegara called Sriranga. There is a beautiful temple of Gopala Krishna holding the flute. This temple is built in the Vijayanagar style and the temple has some beautiful sculptures and carvings. It would be better to see this temple before climbing the hill to see the Ranganatha.

The climb to the top of the Ranganatha hill is not smooth and the steps are rather steep and uneven. On the way, you come across a small cave which the locals call as Bhairava.

The cave has two idols with masks called Kenchanna and Kariyanna and other small idols.

There is an interesting story behind Kenchanna and Kariyanna. Both of them were guards of the temple and they were transformed into masks to eternally guard the temple.

These masks are so beautifully made that they look human.

The locals say that you should first visit this cave and then proceed to climb the hill to view the Ranganatha Temple.  

The Ranganatha shrine is located in a cave, Apart from this idol, there is a shrine to Srinivasa. If you climb a little higher, you can see a natural pond. The pond is supposed to contain a perennial source of water.

The hill was once the abode of a sage called  Rishyashringa. This sage is credited with the construction of the Ranganatha temple.        
A word of caution. The cave temple is open only on Saturdays. The hill is full of snakes

If you have your own transport, getting to this weekend getaway is easy. Otherwise take a train or bus to Channapatana ands from there metadors, taxis and even autos are available to Srirangarajapur.

If you have the time, explore Chennapatna and surrounding areas. The Ambegallu Krishna temple, which is better known as Malur Apremeya Temple is nearby as is Abbur, the abode of the Madhwa saint, Bramanye Theertha. Check out the Abbur caves, Bramanya pura and Kengal. The Kanva reservoir is a sedate spot.

Ramanagar is just away and for food you have plenty of  excellent hotels and restaurants. If you are in Bangalore, the trek and trip can be a day's outing.